What should I check before approving a hoodie sample?

Short answer: A hoodie sample should be approved against the written specification and a short list of checks, not only on how it looks on a table. Start with measurements: lay the sample flat and measure the points in the tech pack, such as body length, chest, sleeve, hood height and width, cuff and hem rib, and compare each one with its tolerance. ISO 3759 describes how to prepare, mark and measure fabric and garments for dimensional change, which is useful when the same points will be measured again after washing. Then check fit on a person of the base size: hood depth over the head, sleeve length with arms raised, shoulder position and pocket placement. Check that the fabric, rib, weight and colour are the approved ones, not substitutes. Wash the sample at least once to the intended care instructions; ISO 5077 is a common method for dimensional change in washing and drying, and ISO 105-C06 and ISO 105-X12 cover colour fastness to washing and rubbing for dark or printed fabric. Inspect prints, embroidery, drawcords, eyelets and labels. For children's hoodies, check drawstrings against the US CPSC rule for children's upper outerwear. Record every comment in writing and approve only when the open points are closed.

Measurement checks

• Body length, chest, shoulder and sleeve.
• Hood height, width and opening.
• Cuff, hem rib and pocket positions.
• Each point against its tolerance.

Material and trim checks

• Body fabric, rib and weight as approved.
• Colour against the approved lab dip.
• Drawcords, eyelets, zips and labels.
• Print and embroidery position and quality.

Wear and wash checks

• Fit on a body of the base size.
• Hood shape after washing.
• Shrinkage and twisting after washing.
• Colour change and staining on dark shades.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could wash the second sample once, re-measure sleeve, body and hood, and send a short comment sheet listing each point as accepted, to change, or to recheck on the next sample.

Recording the approval

Write the approval on the sample's tag and in the order file, with the date, the sample round and any conditions. An approval with open comments should say exactly which comments must be met in bulk.

Comments the factory can act on

Write each comment as a measured change with its location, such as lengthen sleeve by 1.5 cm or raise pocket by 2 cm, and say whether it applies to all sizes. Vague comments such as feels short tend to return unchanged on the next sample.

Limits

One sample shows the pattern and materials, not production variation. Bulk still needs inline and final inspection.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: approval should be against the spec, with measurements, fit, materials and a wash check. Recommendation: approve in writing with conditions listed. Uncertain: how bulk fabric lots will behave compared with the sample fabric.

Sources and further reading

• ISO 3759:2011 — Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments for dimensional change
• ISO 5077:2007 — Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
• ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
• ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
• U.S. CPSC — Drawstrings in Children's Upper Outerwear (16 CFR Part 1120)

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.