Which lab tests should I order for a new basics line?

Short answer: Tests fall into two groups: tests that support quality and care claims, and tests that support legal compliance in each market. For basics, common performance tests are dimensional change after washing, for example ISO 5077, colour fastness to washing with ISO 105-C06, to rubbing with ISO 105-X12 and to perspiration with ISO 105-E04, and pilling with ISO 12945-2. These support care labels and reduce returns, and their requirements are set by the brand or retailer. Legal requirements depend on the product and market. In the US, CPSC guidance lists 16 CFR Part 1610, the flammability standard for clothing textiles, among rules that need a General Certificate of Conformity based on testing or a reasonable testing program, and unless an exemption applies; for general-use products, testing need not be done by a CPSC-accepted lab. Children's products are different: they need third-party testing by a CPSC-accepted laboratory, a Children's Product Certificate and, for products in continuing production, periodic testing. Chemical restrictions also apply, such as the REACH Annex XVII restrictions in the EU. A certificate such as OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, which tests articles for harmful substances, can support chemical due diligence but does not replace market-specific obligations. Build a test plan by product: list each market's rules, the retailer's requirements, then the performance tests that support your care labels and quality promises.

Performance tests for basics

• Shrinkage after washing.
• Colour fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration.
• Pilling.
• Seam strength or bursting for stretch fabrics.

Compliance areas to check

• Flammability rules for clothing textiles in the US.
• Children's product rules if relevant.
• Chemical restrictions in each market.
• Labelling rules for fibre content and care.

Building a test plan

• Products and markets.
• Retailer requirements.
• Tests per fabric and colour group.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could test shrinkage and colour fastness on each fabric and on the darkest colour of each fabric, rather than every colour, and check with its lab which compliance tests apply to each market.

Testing by fabric rather than style

Several styles made from the same fabric and dye process can often share fabric tests, while garment-level checks such as seams and print durability are done per style.

Reading lab quotations

Lab quotations often list many tests in packages. Ask the lab to mark which tests relate to legal requirements in your markets and which are optional performance tests, then choose the performance tests that support your care labels and quality targets.

Limits

Requirements change and differ by market and product type. Confirm the current rules with a qualified lab or adviser before launch.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: tests support either quality and care claims or legal compliance, and children's products have stricter US testing rules. Recommendation: build a test plan from markets, retailer rules and care claims. Uncertain: changes to market rules after the plan is made.

Sources and further reading

• ISO 5077:2007 — Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
• ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
• ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
• ISO 105-E04:2013 — Colour fastness to perspiration
• ISO 12945-2:2020 — Pilling, fuzzing or matting, modified Martindale method
• U.S. CPSC — General Certificate of Conformity (GCC) FAQ
• U.S. CPSC — Periodic Testing FAQ (children's products, 16 CFR 1107.21)
• ECHA — REACH Annex XVII restrictions (entry 27, nickel)
• OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.