Will my sample cost be refunded when I place an order?

Short answer: Whether sample costs are refunded or credited depends entirely on what was agreed, because practice differs between factories and between types of cost. Many factories charge for samples to cover pattern making, sample fabric, trims, sample sewing and sometimes custom elastic or printed waistbands, and some credit part or all of this against a first order that reaches an agreed quantity. Courier costs are usually not credited, because they are paid to a third party. Development costs that are specific to the style, such as a custom jacquard waistband, printing screens or a knitting set-up for custom fabric, may be charged separately and are often not refundable, because they are spent whether or not an order follows. Lab tests requested during development, for example shrinkage to ISO 5077 or colour fastness to washing to ISO 105-C06, are normally charged at the lab's cost. To avoid a surprise, ask before sampling for a written breakdown of sample charges, which of them are creditable, the minimum order needed to earn the credit, and the time limit within which the order must be placed. Then make sure the credit appears on the proforma invoice, not only in emails, so both sides apply the same terms.

What sample fees usually cover

• Pattern making and grading.
• Sample fabric, elastic and trims.
• Sample sewing time.
• Special set-ups for custom materials.

Often not credited

• Courier and shipping costs.
• Third-party lab tests.
• Printing screens and custom tooling.
• Extra rounds caused by design changes.

Agreeing terms

• Written breakdown of sample charges.
• Which costs are creditable.
• Minimum order to earn the credit.
• Time limit for the order.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could ask the factory to confirm in the quotation that pattern and sample sewing fees are credited if the first order reaches the stated MOQ within an agreed period, while couriers, tests and printing screens are paid separately.

Extra rounds

Agree how many rounds are included. Rounds caused by the brand changing the design are commonly charged, while rounds needed to correct factory errors are often not; write down how each case will be treated.

If the credit was not applied

If an agreed credit is missing from an invoice, send the factory the written terms and the sample payment references, and ask for a corrected proforma before paying the deposit. If nothing was agreed in writing, treat any credit as a negotiation rather than an entitlement.

Limits

Terms vary widely. Nothing here describes what any particular factory must offer; the agreement between the parties decides.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: sample credit depends on what was agreed, and third-party costs are rarely credited. Recommendation: get written sample terms, including credit conditions, before development. Uncertain: the terms any given factory will accept.

Sources and further reading

• ISO 5077:2007 — Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
• ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.