What should I check on a print strike-off?

Short answer: A strike-off is a short sample of the print on the actual fabric, and it should be approved as fabric, not only as artwork. First check colour: compare each colour in the print with the colour standard under the agreed light source, usually a D65 daylight simulator with a second, very different source, as ASTM D1729 describes for visual appraisal of colour. Then check scale and repeat against the artwork, including how the repeat will fall across the garment pieces, so motifs do not end up cut awkwardly at seams or on the pouch. Check registration, meaning that colours line up where they meet, and look for missing detail, blurred lines or flooded areas. Check that the strike-off is on the bulk base fabric, because the same print looks different on another fabric or after a different finish. Feel the print, since heavy ink coverage can stiffen a stretch fabric. Finally, wash and rub a piece: ISO 105-C06 covers colour fastness to washing and ISO 105-X12 to rubbing, and the ISO 105-A02 grey scale is used to rate change in colour. Record the approval on the strike-off itself, with date and comments, and keep it as the bulk reference.

Colour and print quality

• Each colour against the standard.
• Registration between colours.
• Fine detail and line quality.
• No flooding or missing areas.

Scale and placement

• Repeat size against the artwork.
• How the repeat falls on pattern pieces.
• Motif positions on front and pouch.

Fabric and performance

• Bulk base fabric and finish.
• Hand feel and stretch after printing.
• Colour fastness to washing and rubbing.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could lay a paper pattern of the front panel on the strike-off to see where motifs fall, then wash a cut piece and compare it with an unwashed piece before approving.

Stretch and recovery

On stretch fabrics, pull the printed area and let it recover. Check that the print does not crack, show white base fabric when stretched, or stay distorted.

Comments on a strike-off

Write comments for each colour and area, for example make blue darker to match the standard or reduce repeat by 10 percent, and mark them on a photo of the strike-off. Clear comments reduce the number of rounds and help the printer adjust screens or files correctly.

Limits

A strike-off is a small sample; bulk printing can vary between rolls. Ask for a bulk print approval from the first production roll as well.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: a strike-off should be checked for colour, repeat, registration, fabric and fastness before bulk. Recommendation: approve on bulk base fabric under agreed light, with a wash and rub check. Uncertain: variation between bulk printing runs.

Sources and further reading

• ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
• ISO 105-X12:2016 — Colour fastness to rubbing
• ISO 105-A02:1993 — Grey scale for assessing change in colour
• ASTM D1729-22 — Visual appraisal of colors and color differences of diffusely-illuminated opaque materials

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.