What should be approved before bulk cutting starts?

Short answer: Cutting is the last point at which fabric problems can be fixed cheaply, because cut panels cannot be re-dyed, re-finished or returned to the mill. Before cutting, the bulk fabric should be checked against the approved standard and the order specification. Shade comes first: compare a header from each dye lot with the approved lab dip under the agreed light, and decide whether lots will be cut separately so that one garment does not mix shades; instrumental colour difference can be calculated with ISO 105-J03. Then check weight per square metre against the tolerance, using a method such as ASTM D3776, plus usable width, which affects the marker. Shrinkage should be tested on bulk fabric, for example with ISO 5077, because the pattern allows for an expected shrinkage and a different value changes the finished size. Colour fastness to washing, for example ISO 105-C06, and pilling with ISO 12945-2 where surface matters, confirm that bulk performs like the sample fabric. Fabric should also be inspected for visible faults such as holes, stains, barre or uneven dyeing. Beyond fabric, confirm that the PP sample is approved, the elastic and trims match, the marker uses the right pattern version, and the size ratio is final.

Fabric checks

• Shade by dye lot against the standard.
• Weight and usable width.
• Shrinkage on bulk fabric.
• Fastness and pilling where needed.
• Visual faults.

Other approvals before cutting

• PP sample approved, with comments closed.
• Elastic, thread and trims matched.
• Marker and pattern version.
• Final size and colour quantities.

Handling shade lots

• Separate rolls by lot.
• Cut each garment from one lot.
• Keep panels in bundles by lot.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could ask the factory to send a header from each bulk dye lot, a short test report on weight and shrinkage, and a photo of the marker with its pattern version, then approve cutting by email once all three match the PP sample.

If bulk fabric is outside tolerance

Decide with the factory whether to re-finish, adjust the pattern for a different shrinkage, use the lot for another style, or replace it. Each option affects time and cost, so a quick decision before cutting saves both.

Recording the approval

Give cutting approval in writing, listing the lots approved, the test results reviewed, the pattern version and any conditions, such as cut lot B only for the black style. A clear record avoids later disputes about what was approved.

Limits

Lab results describe the tested specimens. Roll-to-roll variation means that checks should cover several rolls and lots, not one swatch.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: fabric shade, weight, width, shrinkage and fastness should be confirmed on bulk before cutting. Recommendation: approve cutting in writing after lot headers, tests and marker are checked. Uncertain: variation within lots that only shows on finished garments.

Sources and further reading

• ASTM D3776/D3776M — Mass per unit area (weight) of fabric
• ISO 5077:2007 — Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
• ISO 105-C06:2010 — Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
• ISO 12945-2:2020 — Pilling, fuzzing or matting, modified Martindale method
• ISO 105-J03:2009 — Calculation of colour differences

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.