Should I split one style across two factories?

Short answer: Splitting one style across two factories can reduce dependence on a single supplier and add capacity in busy periods, but it also adds the risk that the two versions are not the same. Differences usually come from fabric, patterns and sewing methods. If each factory sources its own fabric, shade, hand feel, weight and shrinkage can differ even with the same specification. If each makes its own pattern, fit can shift slightly. Different machines and stitching settings can change seam appearance and stretch. Customers who buy the same item again often notice. If you decide to split, reduce these sources of variation. Use the same fabric from the same mill where possible, or at least the same quality and shade standard approved under the same lighting; ASTM D1729 describes visual colour appraisal under defined illuminants, and ISO 105-J03 covers instrumental colour difference calculation. Give both factories the same pattern files, measurement specification with points of measure and tolerances, construction details and trims list. Seal identical approved samples for both, and approve a pre-production sample from the second factory side by side with production from the first. Apply the same inspection plan, defect list and AQLs to both. Keep the split clear in your records, with factory codes on labels or cartons, so issues can be traced. For small brands with low volume, the extra work may outweigh the benefits; it is often better to secure capacity at one factory first.

Benefits

• Less dependence on one supplier.
• More capacity in peak periods.
• Comparison of performance.

Risks

• Shade and fabric differences.
• Fit differences from patterns.
• Different construction and finish.
• More management work.

Controls if you split

• Same fabric or shade standard.
• Same patterns and specification.
• Side-by-side sample approval.
• Same inspection plan.
• Traceable factory codes.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could give the second factory the same pattern files and fabric, approve its sample next to a bulk piece from the first factory, and add a factory code to the carton marks.

Planning the split

Decide how to divide the order: by colour, by size, by market or by quantity. Splitting by colour keeps each colour consistent from one factory, while splitting by size within one colour increases the risk that customers notice differences.

Limits

Even with these controls, small differences may remain. Decide whether they are acceptable before splitting.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: ASTM D1729 and ISO 105-J03 are used for visual and instrumental colour assessment. Recommendation: share fabric, patterns, specifications and sealed samples, and approve side by side if you split a style. Uncertain: whether small differences will matter to customers.

Sources and further reading

• ISO 105-J03:2009 — Calculation of colour differences
• ASTM D1729-22 — Visual appraisal of colors and color differences of diffusely-illuminated opaque materials
• ISO 8559-1:2017 — Size designation of clothes: anthropometric definitions for body measurement

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.