What is a sealed or golden sample and why keep one?

Short answer: A sealed or golden sample is a physical reference of the approved product, signed or sealed by both buyer and factory, and kept as the standard for bulk production. It shows what written specifications cannot fully describe: hand feel, shade, stitching appearance, print quality, labels and packaging. Inspectors compare bulk pieces with it, and in a dispute it shows what was approved. Usually at least two identical samples are sealed, one kept by the buyer and one by the factory, and sometimes a third for the inspection provider. Each sample should carry a tag with the style, colour, size, approval date, order number and signatures, and be sealed in a bag so it cannot be changed. Store it away from light, which can fade colours over time, and in a clean, dry place. For shade comparisons, keep the sample under the same conditions as other shade standards and compare it under agreed lighting; ASTM D1729 describes visual colour appraisal under defined illuminants. During inspection, the inspector compares bulk with the sealed sample and the specification, and classifies differences using the agreed defect list and AQLs under ISO 2859-1. For reorders, the same sealed sample remains the standard unless a change is approved, in which case a new sample is sealed and the old one marked as superseded.

What a sealed sample shows

• Fabric hand feel and shade.
• Stitching and construction.
• Prints, labels and packaging.

How to handle it

• Seal at least two identical samples.
• Tag with style, colour, size, date and signatures.
• Store away from light and moisture.

A worked example

As an illustration, a brand could seal three samples after PP approval, keep one, give one to the factory and send one to the inspection provider, with matching tags and photos on file.

When changes are approved

Seal a new sample for any approved change and mark the old one as superseded, so only one standard is used.

Using it in disputes

If bulk is disputed, compare the disputed pieces with both sealed samples, ideally on a call with the factory, under the same lighting. Because both sides signed the same sample, the discussion can focus on the product rather than on memory.

Limits

A sealed sample cannot replace written specifications, tolerances and defect lists. It works best together with them.

Facts, recommendations and uncertainty

Established: ASTM D1729 covers visual colour appraisal, and inspections commonly use ISO 2859-1 sampling with agreed AQLs. Recommendation: seal identical samples for buyer, factory and inspector, and replace them when changes are approved. Uncertain: colour change in stored samples over long periods.

Sources and further reading

• ASTM D1729-22 — Visual appraisal of colors and color differences of diffusely-illuminated opaque materials
• ISO 2859-1:2026 — Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes (AQL)

Standards and regulations are referenced by their published scope. Test parameters, cycles and pass levels should be agreed with your laboratory for the specific product; legal requirements should be confirmed for each destination market.